Material guide

Natural materials

Alpaca

Alpaca

Alpaca is a domesticated species of South American Camelidae that resembles a small llama and whose wool is harvested to make threads for clothing.

Characteristics

  • Softer than silk, rarer than cashmere and warmer than wool.

  • Exists in 16 natural colors.

  • Thermally insulating.

  • Hypoallergenic.

Care

  • Alpaca fiber clothing requires a bit more care. The best way to wash it, is by hand in cool water with a small amount of detergent – lay to dry in the shade.

  • It won’t shrink or pill if cared for correctly.

Sustainability

  • 1 year is usually the time it takes for an item created with alpaca wool to decompose.

  • 0 harsh chemicals are needed – this means that alpaca farming is completely safe and does not have a negative impact on the natural environment.

  • Alpacas are native to Peru and while the alpaca trade is good for local communities, the wool also needs to travel long distances to get to customers in other parts of the world and as a result, increases the CO2 emissions associated with the material.

  • Alpacas are not harmed during the shearing process.

  • Alpacas have soft, padded feet that do not tear into topsoil, unlike the hooves of sheep and goats.

Angora

Angora

Angora wool is made by Angora rabbits, with 90% of Angora fur produced in China. It is mainly used for knitted clothing such as sweaters, vests and winter fashion accessories.

Characteristics

  • Lightest natural fiber ever made.

  • Extremely lightweight, but also very warm.

  • Clothing made from angora wool requires a lot of care. Cleaning angora too much can break the item down.

Care

  • Dry cleaning angora is the best way to care for it, but you can also hand wash it in cold water.

  • Avoid sunlight & bleach, as they can damage the material.

  • Place an angora sweater in the freezer for 20 minutes to restore its fluffiness.

  • Add salt to water to prevent colors from running when washing angora.

Sustainability

  • 1 year is usually the time it takes for an angora wool sweater to decompose.

  • In industrial factories, in which hair is harvested by plucking, is both painful and distressing for an animal. In China, where the majority of angora wool is produced, there are no regulations on the treatment of animals.

Bamboo

Bamboo

Bamboo is a natural textile made from the pulp of bamboo grass. The majority of the bamboo that is used in the textile trade comes almost exclusively from China.

Characteristics

  • Comfortable, breathable and anti-static.

  • Absorbs moisture well and dries fast.

  • Hypoallergenic

  • Wrinkle Resistant

  • Bamboo loses 60% of its strength when wet.

  • Bamboo products tend to be more expensive.

Care

  • Bamboo clothing can be washed at 30° and it is recommended to turn it inside out. Fabric softeners are neither needed, nor recommended.

Sustainability

  • 1 year is usually the time it takes for a bamboo t-shirt to decompose.

  • ⅓ of water is required to that needed in growing cotton. Bamboo is also not very demanding on water in comparison to other crops.

  • 0 pesticides or synthetic fertilizers are needed in the growing of bamboo, but most bamboo fabrics are made through a chemically intensive process.

  • 5.1 tons of carbon is absorbed by a bamboo field, which can compensate for the CO2 emissions of three people in China.

Cashmere

Cashmere

Cashmere is a fiber obtained from a specific breed of goat, the cashmere goat. There are also pashmina goats and other breeds. The material is collected during the spring moulting season, when the goats naturally shed their winter coat. 90% of cashmere fabrics come from Mongolia.

Characteristics

  • Lightweight and comfortable.

  • Adapts well to temperature.

  • Cashmere clothing is very warm without being heavy.

  • It has a tendency to shrink.

  • Cashmere pieces are generally more expensive.

Care

  • Cashmere clothing should be hand washed or professionally dry cleaned.

  • A cashmere sweater should never be hung, but always folded to avoid misshaping the knit.

  • Keep it away from heat sources such as radiators and sunlight, and allow it to air-dry naturally.

Sustainability

  • 1 year is the length it usually takes for an article of cashmere clothing to degrade.

  • A lot of water is used to wash cashmere wool, which may burden water systems.

  • 4 goats to are needed to produce enough fiber to make a single cashmere sweater, while just one sheep is needed to create enough wool to make five sweaters.

Cotton

Cotton

Cotton is a natural fibre that is strong, absorbs moisture well and is easy to work with, which is also why it got its popularity in the fashion industry. It is often found in combination with other synthetic fibers that improve the elasticity and shape of clothing. Cotton is grown in more than 90 countries, notably in India, China, USA and Pakistan. Globally, the cotton industry employs more than 200 million people.

Characteristics

  • Cotton is breathable, soft to the touch and does not electrify.

  • Purely cotton clothes are hypoallergenic and do not irritate the skin.

  • However, they crease easily and are prone to pilling.

  • With frequent washing, the colours may start to fade.

Care

  • Cotton can withstand high temperatures, so you can wash 100% cotton clothing in temperatures up to 60° and cotton blend materials up to 40°C.

  • It's beneficial to turn clothing inside out before washing to prevent pilling.

Sustainability

  • 5–6 months is usually the time it takes for a cotton T-shirt to decompose. The same T-shirt made in polyester one take cca 200 years.

  • 2 700 liters of water are usually used to create a single T-shirt. Cotton is very demanding on water. One pair of jeans uses up to 10 000 liters.

  • 450kg of chemicals are used per one ton of cotton. Growing cotton requires more chemical usage than any other crop.

  • 4.3kg of CO2 is produced in the process of creating of a single T-shirt. That equates to a 16km car drive.

Fur

Fur

Fur is the thick growth of hair that covers the skin of many animals. People often make coats and other warm clothing from fur, as fur is valued both for its beauty and the warmth it provides. The most popular natural furs used for clothing include beaver, fox, mink, muskrat, and raccoon. Chinchilla, mink, Persian lamb, and sable are among the most fashionable and most expensive furs.

Characteristics

  • Supremely warm and very comfortable to wear.

  • If cared for properly, fur clothing will last a long time.

  • Fur sheds.

Care

  • Furs should always be hung on a broad, sturdy padded hanger to keep the shoulders from losing their shape.

  • A genuine fur coat should be cleaned by a professional annually.

Sustainability

  • 2 years is the usual time it takes for fur to decompose. Fur itself is biodegradable, but the hazardous chemicals used in the production of fur clothing slows down the process of decomposition.

  • 28kg of CO2 is produced per article of mink or fox clothing, which is equivalent to the carbon footprint of 3 days worth of average customer consumption.

  • The harvesting and production of fur is viewed as unethical.

  • Farming requires a lot of food, water, and energy, which increases both phosphorus and nitrogen emissions from farms that are harmful to the environment.

Hemp

Hemp

Hemp, or industrial hemp is typically found in the northern hemisphere and is a strain of the Cannabis sativa plant species that is grown for various purposes such as industrial, medicinal or recreational. Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen. For clothing, in some instances, hemp is mixed with lyocell.

Characteristics

  • Three times stronger than cotton.

  • Breathable.

  • Very durable.

  • Anti-microbial and UV resistant.

  • Naturally resistant to mold, mildew and rot.

  • Softens with each washing, without fiber degradation.

Care

  • Place delicate hemp articles in a lingerie bag before putting them into a washing machine. Wash colored hemp in cold water.

  • Add one cup of white vinegar added to rinse water, it removes all traces of soap and leaves fabrics smelling fresh.

Sustainability

  • 3–6 months is how long it takes for hemp clothing to decompose.

  • Uses 4 times less water than required for cotton.

  • 0 harsh chemical herbicides are needed for growing hemp, it even naturally reduces pests.

  • Hemp naturally absorbs CO2.

  • Returns 60–70% of the nutrients it takes from the soil.

Jute

Jute

Jute is produced from the jute plant and is one of the most affordable natural fibers and second only to cotton in the amount produced. About 95% of jute in the world is grown and produced in India and Bangladesh. Jute production is environmentally friendly and easy to make and as a result, has minimal impacts on the environment.

Characteristics

  • Jute has good stretch and bending properties. Jute is often made into rugs, sackcloths, packaging and bags, which are considered one of the best alternatives to plastic bags.

  • Jute rugs can become moldy in high moisture and humid places.

  • Jute can be prone to shedding. Jute fabrics can be brittle so it must be handled gently and washed by hand – do not wring or twist the fabric when wet.

Care

Sustainability

  • 2–3 years to degrade.

  • Relies on natural rainfall, rather than extensive irrigation.

  • 0 need for pesticides or fertilizers.

  • 15 tonnes of CO2 are absorbed by a hectare of Jute plants and 11 tonnes of oxygen are produced, so jute cultivation helps clean the air!

Leather

Leather

Leather is a natural material created by tanning animal skins. The majority of the world's leather is produced in Asia.

Characteristics

  • Warm and breathable material, making it really good for shoes and jackets – synthetic leather lacks this feature and can become uncomfortable in warm weather.

  • Very durable.

  • Tends to be more expensive.

Care

  • Leather goods should be kept out of the sun in a cool, dry place. Do not keep leather in plastic bags.

  • When treating, only use products specifically designed for the treatment and maintenance leather.

Sustainability

  • 25–50 years is usually the time it takes for leather to decompose.

  • The water footprint for leather is 17L/kg which is 20 times less than it is for artificial leather.

  • Tanning is a very toxic phase in leather processing, which can cause workers severe side effects such as cancer. 60% of the raw materials used end up wasted, including carcinogenic chromium.

  • Leather has a CO2 emission 4 times higher than artificial leather.

  • Animals are often kept in unethical or painful conditions.

  • 70% of the Amazon rainforest has been cleared for the creation of pastures.

Linen

Linen

Flax is a strong fiber and transforms into linen, a breathable and antibacterial fabric. It can grow in a cold non-tropical climate, so the majority of linen is produced in China, Belgium, France, Belarus and Russia.

Characteristics

  • Linen absorbs moisture well and dries quickly.

  • The fabric is anti-static, hypoallergenic and antibacterial.

  • Linen is thermo-regulating, meaning, a person who wears linen sweats 1.5 times less than when wearing cotton and 2 times less than when wearing viscose.

  • Linen lasts up to 12 times longer than cotton.

  • Linen wrinkles easily, requiring a lot of ironing.

  • Unlike cotton, linen fibers are weaker when wet – linen garments should be turned inside out before washing.

Care

  • Linen can be washed at 40° and then ironed at a higher temperature.

Sustainability

  • 2 weeks to decompose if all natural.

  • A water footprint that is 30 times less than that of cotton, and given the moist climate of Europe, there is no need for irrigation.

  • 0 need of pesticides.

  • 3.7 metric tons of carbon dioxide are absorbed by a hectare of flax plants annually and converted into oxygen. This emission is equivalent to driving an average car 300 times around the Earth – and only from one hectare!

  • **5–20 times less energy used in comparison to cotton.

Merino Wool

Merino Wool

Merino wool is a natural fiber grown by Merino sheep. Unlike regular sheep native to the lowlands, the merino is built to survive the scorching summers and freezing winters in the mountains of New Zealand, Australia and China. This type of wool is not only popular for sweaters and coats, but it is also the ideal thin base layer for close-to-skin sport garments.

Characteristics

  • Merino wool breathes, isolates warmth well and absorbs moisture.

  • Merino fibres are much softer than normal wool fibres, so it can be worn against even the most sensitive skin.

  • The lanolin in merino wool is naturally anti-odour, antibacterial and non-allergenic – it’s even fire-retardant.

Care

  • For merino wool, ventilating the garment is typically sufficient in place of washing.

  • Machine-wash on gentle cycle in warm or cool water (avoid hot water as heat may shrink wool). Cannot be washed with chlorine detergents and fabric softeners.

Sustainability

  • 1–5 years is the span for chemically untreated merino wool to biodegrade.

  • 500 times less demanding than cotton production in terms of water usage. Merino wool textile products tend to be washed less frequently and at lower temperatures, which has a lower impact on the environment.

  • Chemicals are used much less in the production of merino wool than in the production of cotton.

  • 3 times less energy used in production in comparison to akryl.

  • The maintained practice of mulesing sheep, is painful for the animal.

Mohair

Mohair

Mohair is a silk-like fabric made from the hair of the Angora goat (not to be confused with the Angora rabbit which produces Angora wool). Mohair is a luxurious material, ranked alongside cashmere and silk. Near 50% of the world's mohair comes from 12 farms in South Africa.

Characteristics

  • Mohair is known for it’s soft, silky wool. It is a strong fiber, doesn’t electrify and straightens easily. The addition of 15 to 25% of mohair fibers are enough to bring a soft feeling to a blended material.

  • Has great insulating properties, while remaining cool in the summer.

Care

  • For mohair, ventilating the garment is typically sufficient in place of washing.

  • If washed, it must be washed by hand or in the wool program. It cannot be washed with chlorine detergents and should be laid to dry naturally on a flat surface.

Sustainability

  • 1–5 years is usually the time needed for a mohair sweater to completely biodegrade.

  • 500 times less demanding than cotton production in terms of water usage.

  • Chemicals are used to deter parasites.

  • 3 times less energy is used in the production of mohair in comparison to acrylic materials.

  • Inhumane conditions in the treatment of Angora goats, has prompted Topshop, H&M, Zara, Gap, Lacoste and many others to ban the material.

Organic Cotton

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown in a traditional way and without the use of any chemicals. The seeds themselves are also not genetically modified.

Characteristics

  • Just as normal cotton, organic cotton is also breathable, soft to the touch and does not electrify.

  • Organic cotton clothing is hypoallergenic and does not irritate the skin.

  • However, it also creases easily and is prone to pilling.

  • With frequent washing, the colors may start to fade.

Care

Sustainability

  • 5–6 months is the time span it takes for an organic cotton t-shirt to decompose.

  • 91% reduction in water used as most of the irrigation for organic cotton comes from rainfall.

  • 0 harmful chemicals are used in production of organic clothing.

  • 46% less CO2 is produced by organic cotton compared to conventional cotton

Ramie

Ramie

Ramie (also known as China Grass) is a long, strong and rigid fiber obtained from the plant’s stem. Rami is a member of the nettle family growing predominantly in tropical climates. Removing the fiber from the plant is a difficult process, therefore, rami is a very valuable fiber. The leading global producers of rami are China, Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines and Brazil.

Characteristics

  • The fiber absorbs water well and dries easily.

  • Resistant to bacteria, mold, sun and weather effects.

  • The fiber is very fine and looks like a mix of linen and silk.

  • Can stretch if not handled properly.

Care

Sustainability

  • A few years is usually sufficient time for Ramie to biodegrade.

  • Similar to other bast fibers like hemp and nettle in that it requires minimal amounts of water.

  • No pesticides or herbicides recurred for Ramie to thrive.

  • Can be harvested up to six times a year with a crop life of 6–20 years. Highly renewable and can produce a large amount of crops in a short time span, as well as on limited surface areas.

Silk

Silk

Silk is an animal protein fiber produced by caterpillars of the mulberry silk moth. China traditionally produces about 80% of the world’s silk. Although relatively cheap to manufacture, silk is often seen as an expensive fibre.

Characteristics

  • Breathes well and feels warm on the skin in cool air and vice versa.

  • Soft, flexible and self-cleaning and therefore, it is often enough to ventilate silk instead of washing.

  • One of the most expensive fabrics on the market.

  • Wrinkles easily and requires a steam iron. Very delicate – stains with water, yellows with age and weakens from sun and soap.

Care

  • Silk needs special care. Dry-cleaning is the preferred method of cleaning silk garments, but if you plan to hand wash a silk garment, use mild soap and don’t twist it as it can ruin the clothing.

Sustainability

  • 4 years is usually how long it takes to biodegrade.

  • Low water and land footprint.

  • 5.425kg of CO2 is emitted per each ton of silk, making the carbon footprint of silk relatively low. The same amount is needed for 5 cotton t-shirts. In addition, mulberry trees actually reduce the amount of carbon dioxide in the air.

  • Commonly in silk production, the cocoons are immersed in boiling water, thereby killing the caterpillar inside to keep the thread undamaged – this is what makes the silk much softer.

  • Has a low environmental impact compared to other fibres. The silkworms feed on mulberry leaves, which do not require much pesticide.

Wool

Wool

Lamb’s wool is the oldest animal fiber used in textiles. Most of the wool comes from Australia and New Zealand.

Characteristics

  • Wool breathes and isolates warmth well.

  • Absorbs moisture, doesn’t wrinkle and straightens quickly.

  • It can be scratchy and uncomfortable to wear.

Care

  • For lambswool, ventilating the garment is typically sufficient in place of washing.

  • If washed, it must be washed by hand or in the wool program. It cannot be washed with chlorine detergents.

Sustainability

  • 1–5 years is the span for chemically untreated wool to biodegrade.

  • 500 times less demanding than cotton production in terms of water usage.

  • Chemicals are used much less in the production of wool than in the production of cotton.

  • 24.9kg of CO2 is emitted during the production of 1kg of wool Self-renewable and often recycled.

  • 3 times less energy is used in its production in comparison to acrylic fibers.

Semi-synthetic materials

Acetate

Acetate

A manufactured fiber using cotton waste or wood cellulose as raw materials and made by dry spinning with acetone used as a solvent.

Acetate was first produced in the 1920s in the form of diacetate silk by the English company Celanese. Later on, American companies started producing it and the United States became the top producer of acetate.

Acetate fabric is used frequently in wedding gowns and other bridal garments. Its smooth characteristics make it a good synthetic alternative to silk and is also sometimes used in sleepwear or the lining of clothes.

Characteristics

  • Gentle on the skin, with a silk-like gloss.

  • Ideal water absorption and quick-drying qualities; absorbs less water than viscose.

  • Does not shrink easily, so provides stability for dimensions and measurements.

  • Does not stain easily, and stains are easy to remove.

  • Flammable.

  • Creases easily.

Care

  • If the label shows that the garment containing acetate fibers can be washed, it is recommended to handwash it in cold water. Otherwise, dry cleaning is advised.

  • When ironing, use a low temperature and a pressing cloth over the item.

Sustainability

  • 99% of the acetone used in the spinning can be recycled and the material is biodegradable.

  • Acetate is produced through a chemical reaction (by reacting wood pulp with acetic anhydride).

Cupro

Cupro

Cupro is a regenerated cellulose fiber made from small pieces of cotton waste called cotton linters. It is produced through a chemical process that combines copper and ammonium. It is similar to rayon, but has breathable characteristics like cotton. Cupro can be used in knitwear, lingerie, linen cloths, dresses and blouses.

Although first produced in the 1900s in Germany, it is currently mainly manufactured in Japan.

Characteristics

  • Strong material, resistant to stretching.

  • Often used as a substitute for silk, due to its smoothness and softness.

  • Does not shrink or wrinkle easily and has good moisture absorbing qualities.

  • Stains easily.

Care

  • Delicate wash at 40°. Bleaching is not recommended. Dry cleaning is possible.

    How to iron: A medium temperature setting may be used.

  • A medium temperature setting may be used when ironing.

Sustainability

  • Cupro is biodegradable and copper, used in the manufacturing process, can be recovered and reused. Cupro is 100% plant-based.

  • There are almost 0 emissions in the production of Cupro from the Asahi Kasei Corporation – today's main manufacturer of the material.

  • Cupro is produced in a closed-loop system, therefore less chemicals and water are used.

Lyocell

Lyocell

A cellulose-based material produced from wood pulp (often, from eucalyptus, oak or birch) in a closed-circuit solvent spinning process using amine oxide.

Lyocell was first produced in the United States, where it is also known as Tencel. Currently, a major lyocell producer is located in Austria (Lenzing AG). Lyocell can be used in clothing, ex. blouses, denim-type products, underwear, sports clothes and baby clothes.

Characteristics

  • Soft, smooth, breathable and lightweight.

  • A strong fiber that does not wrinkle easily, but is elastic and flexible at same time.

  • Anti-bacterial and non-sweating, due to its moisture absorbing qualities.

  • The cost of lyocell is higher than other eco-friendly materials.

  • Not so easy to dye, because of its fairly low energy surface.

Care

  • Hand-wash in warm or cold water with a mild detergent, without squeezing the cloth and allowing it to air dry on a hanger.

  • A medium temperature setting when for ironing (not too high) is recommended.

Sustainability

  • Lyocell is completely biodegradable.

  • 112,804l/tonnes of water is required for the production of lyocell.

  • The main solvent in the process is amine oxide, which is non-toxic and recyclable.

  • 10, 185 CO2-eq (kg/ton). The largest lyocell producer uses mainly bio fuels in production. Waste byproducts are reused as a source of fuel.

  • Around 100MJ/KG for production.

Piñatex

Piñatex

An innovative natural fabric made from pineapple leaf fibers. The leaves are left over from pineapples harvested in a farm in the Philippines and are converted into the fabric through a decortication process. Piñatex is used in clothes, bags, shoes, and even furniture.

Characteristics

  • Sustainable and cruelty-free alternative to leather.

  • Strong and long-lasting.

  • Breathable, lightweight and has a soft feel.

  • Water resistant, but not waterproof.

Care

  • Gentle waxing with natural colorless wax is recommended.

Sustainability

  • Piñatex substrate is made of natural fibres and polylactic acid fibres (PLA) which are 100% biodegradable. The resins used for the coating are petroleum based and currently not biodegradable.

  • A rather small amount of water is used to produce the fibers.

  • 0 harmful chemicals are used in the production of piñatex.

  • 20% less pollution than in the production of animal leather. Piñatex has a low carbon footprint.

  • As pineapple leaves are a by-product of the fruit’s harvest, it is said that the production of piñatex has no environmental impact.

Viscose

Viscose

A cellulose-based fiber made from trees (e.g. eucalyptus, beech, pine) or other plants (bamboo, soy, sugar cane). It is chemically processed to become a viscous substance which turns into a solid fiber. Viscose is used for blouses, shirts, dresses, suits, lightweight knitwear, trousers etc.

The production of viscose was patented in the UK in the 19th century. Currently, the biggest producing country is China.

Characteristics

  • Soft, comfortable and drapes beautifully.

  • Breathable.

  • Good moisture absorbing qualities.

  • It can ignite and burn easily.

  • Prone to shrinking, stretching and wrinkling.

  • It loses its strength when wet.

Care

  • Dry cleaning is recommended; hard washing might destroy the material.

  • Lowest temperature setting while ironing, and ironing while the fabric is still damp are recommended.

Sustainability

  • The fiber is biodegradable, but its recyclability and biodegradability values decrease when it is combined with other fibers.

  • 640l of water is needed to produce 1kg of viscose.

  • Chemicals such as carbon disulfide, which is very toxic, as well as caustic soda, ammonia, acetone, and sulphuric acid are used in the viscose production.

  • Under 0.5 MT CO2 eq. per tonne of viscose grade pulp is emitted by the lowest emission producer

  • Around 100MJ/kg.

  • The cheap manufacturing of viscose is based on its high usage of water, energy and chemicals that impact both workers and the environment in a negative way.

Synthetic materials

Acrylic

Acrylic

Acrylic is a petroleum-based synthetic fiber made from polymers. The production of acrylic fibers is based in the Far East, Turkey, India, Mexico, and South America.

It is mainly used in the production of knitwear, faux furs, underwear and outdoor fabrics. It is much cheaper than wool and is therefore used as a substitute, or is mixed with other materials such as cotton and mohair.

Characteristics

  • It is light, soft, does not itch and has good weather resistant properties.

  • Acrylic is not as warm as wool.

  • Highly flammable.

Care

  • Clothes made from acrylic fibers should not be washed in temperatures higher than 30 degrees, as they are prone to shrinking. They dry faster and are not prone to wrinkling.

Sustainability

  • Acrylic fibers are not biodegradable or easily recycled.

  • The production of acrylic fibers is more demanding on water than polyester.

  • The production of acrylic fibers is more demanding on energy than polyester.

  • During washing, acrylic fibers release environmentally harmful microfibers contaminating the water.

Elastane

Elastane

Elastane is an oil-based fiber derived from polyurethane. It is also known as Spandex (an anagram for “expands”) or Lycra®, a name trademarked in 1958 by the DuPont Corporation. The production of elastane is mainly based in China, the United States, India, Pakistan, and Brazil.

Elastane is always used in combination with other fibers, most often as a filament fiber in order to add elasticity. It is mostly used in underwear, shapewear, socks, tights and swimsuits. It is also used in small percentages in combination with cotton for ex. in jeans and any other form-fitting garments, such as sportswear.

Characteristics

  • Highly elastic/stretchy.

  • The heat resistance of the fiber is poor.

Care

  • Clothes made from elastane should be washed at no more than 30 to 40 degrees.

  • They should be ironed with caution and turned inside out, as the fibers are sensitive to heat.

Sustainability

  • 450 years is usually how long it takes for elastan to break down.

  • The production of elastane involves the use of a variety of toxic chemicals.

  • The process of manufacturing this fabric is energy-intensive.

Polyamide

Polyamide

Polyamides are a group of synthetic fibers, the raw materials of which are by-products of the oil industry. The most well-known polyamide fiber is nylon, which can be found mostly in tights. It is also used as an inexpensive substitute for silk. Its production is mostly based in Germany, the United States and China.

Polyamide is predominantly used in socks, tights and underwear, sweaters and coats, but also in sportswear. It is especially elastic. Polyamide is often blended with cotton, viscose and modal.

Characteristics

  • Polyamide provides the product with a permanence to abrasion and acceleration of its drying process.

Care

  • As most synthetic materials, polyamide/nylon is sensitive to heat, therefore it should not be washed at high temperatures (max at 40 degrees).

  • It dries fast and usually does not require any ironing. Delicate underwear and tights should be hand-washed.

Sustainability

  • The manufacturing of polyamide consumes non-renewable resources and the fiber is not biodegradable.

  • 185 liters of water is used to produce 1kg of polyamide.

  • 5.5kg of CO2 is produced with every 1kg of polyamide. The CO2 emissions that result from the production of polyamide are higher than those of polyester.

  • Microfibers from polyamide are environmentally harmful, especially when released into the water.

Polyester

Polyester

Polyester is the world’s most produced textile fiber made from petroleum. The most popular variation is the one made from polyethylene terephthalate, or PET (the same material plastic bottles are made from). The production is mostly based in China, India, and Southeast Asia.

Polyester dominates the clothing industry, with annual production exceeding 22.67 billion tonnes worldwide. You will find it all types of clothing alone or as a filament fiber with fabrics like cotton, wool, and nylon. It is predominantly used in sportswear.

Characteristics

  • It is strong, durable and flexible.

  • Resistant to most chemicals, stretching and shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant.

  • Not very breathable and tends to stick to perspiring skin.

  • Since it does not breath, people tend to sweat more, and as it is not antibacterial, the clothing might need washing more frequently.

  • Sensitive to high temperatures.

Care

  • Polyester clothing is sensitive to high temperatures and should be washed at 40 degrees.

  • If necessary, polyester garments can be ironed, but should be done so turned inside out.

Sustainability

  • 20–200 years could be the time it takes for one polyester T-shirt to decompose. It is possible to recycle polyester (usually from bottles) and its environmental impact is lower than that of new fibers.

  • 1kg of polyester uses 1,900 liters of water in its production.

  • Polyester dyes are toxic to humans.

  • 3.8kg of CO2 is produced per 1kg of polyester.

  • 1,900 individual plastic microfibers are released per 1kg of polyester.

Polypropylene

Polypropylene

Polypropylene is a thermoplastic made from waste from the oil industry. It is mostly produced in China and other Asian countries. The manufacturing of the fiber is fast and cheap, so polypropylene is an inexpensive material. Polypropylene is most often used as a filament fiber, especially in bathing suits, socks, underwear, sports textiles and wadding materials. It is often mixed with cotton and wool.

Characteristics

  • It is very elastic, resilient and resistant to chemicals and micro-organisms.

  • Popular due to its antibacterial properties.

  • Wrinkles easily.

  • Has low recovery capabilities if damaged.

Care

Sustainability

  • Polypropylene is not biodegradable.

  • Approximately 43 liters of water are used per production of 1kg of polypropylene.

  • 1.7kg of CO2 is produced per 1kg of polypropylene.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane

Polyurethane fibers are made of oil. Their production is mostly based in Germany, the United States, and China. It is often made into waterproof products such as raincoats and parkas and it can be used as a coating to imitate, for example, leather. Many artificial leather products are made of polyurethane, as it is cheaper than genuine leather.

Characteristics

  • Durable, lightweight and breathable.

  • Resistant to both heat and moisture.

Care

  • As it blocks moisture, stains can often be removed with soap and a damp sponge.

Sustainability

  • It can take up to 500 years for polyurethane to decompose.

  • 347 liters of water are used to produce 1kg of polyurethane.

  • The production of polyurethane involves the use of carcinogenic chemicals.

  • 3.9kg of CO2 is produced per 1kg or polyurethane.

Fabrics

Brocade

Brocade

Brocade is a heavy weave fabric with a raised design. It looks like it is embroidered, however, the patterns are stitched on with extra weft threads as the fabric is woven on a loom, often with gold or silver threads. Traditionally, it could be found on garments worn in India, China or Central America. In Europe, brocade has been known since the 13th century, with the name coming from the Italian word “broccare” which means “to embroider.”

Brocade fabric can be made from natural materials like silk, cotton, linen but also synthetic ones like polyester. Brocade usually presents floral patterns or other intricate details.

Nowadays, brocade is used to make wedding dresses, evening gowns, skirts, suits but also elegant home decor items like pillows and drapes.

Characteristics

  • Looks unique and luxurious

  • Loses elasticity easily

  • Sensitive to high temperatures

Care

  • It is important to check the garment care label for fiber content and instructions, as most brocade garments should be dry-cleaned but some can be also hand-washed.

  • The fabric should not be ironed with high temperature, and should also be turned inside out when ironing.

  • Lay flat to dry and away from direct sunlight to ensure longevity.

Canvas

Canvas

Canvas is a plain-woven fabric typically made of cotton and also, though less frequently, linen and hemp. Historically, canvas fabric used to be made of hemp and the word canvas is derived from the Greek and Latin words for hemp.

The fabric is known for being sturdy and durable. By blending it with synthetic materials, canvas can become more water resistant and therefore, great for making outdoor garments. Canvas fabric has a broad spectrum of uses and it is mainly used for the production of shoes (especially sneakers), bags, backpacks but also sails and tents.

Characteristics

  • Very durable fabric

  • Good mildew resistance

  • Low maintenance required

  • It can lose its shape when improperly washed or cared for

  • The manufacturing process involves the use of many chemicals

Care

  • It is important to check the garment care label for fiber content and instructions. You can machine wash canvas garments on a gentle cycle with cool water and a mild laundry detergent and then allow them to dry in the sun.

  • Ironing depends on the material canvas is made of. If it is made of cotton or linen, it can be ironed on high temperature, but synthetic canvas should be ironed on low temperatures.

Chiffon

Chiffon

Chiffon is a fabric that can be made from natural materials such as silk or cotton, or synthetic ones, such as polyester (most commonly) or nylon. The yarn that is used to produce chiffon is first twisted, then woven.

The name is French and means ‘cloth’ and the fabric is frequently used for evening or wedding dresses, but also for blouses, shirts, scarves or lingerie.

Characteristics

  • It has a very thin and soft feel but a rough texture at the same time

  • Can be easily dyed into various colors, especially when made from silk

  • Polyester chiffon is not breathable and can be damaged more easily

  • Silk chiffon can be hard to manage

Care

  • Silk chiffon should only be hand-washed.

  • Synthetic chiffon can be washed in the washing machine on a cold setting.

Sustainability

  • If chiffon is made of polyester or nylon, it is not biodegradable and can can take up to tens or hundreds of years to decompose.

    If the chiffon is made of silk or cotton, it is biodegradable and will take a few years to decompose.

  • Polyester and nylon are derived from petroleum oil, thus if chiffon is made from these materials, several chemicals are used in the process.

    If made of cotton, chiffon might involve some chemicals the during bleaching or cleaning processes.

    No toxins are used when producing silk chiffon.

  • If chiffon is made of silk, it is considered sustainable as it has a very low environmental impact, with no toxic substances being released back into the environment.

Corduroy

Corduroy

Corduroy is made of cotton or a cotton-mix fabric with a raised, ribbed underlying weave. It is made from woven, twisted fibres which lie in parallel rows or ‘cords’ to form the cloth’s texture. There are also corduroy fabrics that contain polyester fibers, a cotton/poly blend that reduces wrinkling. Elastane has to be added in order to add some stretch. Its uses in fashion include trousers, shirts, skirts, suits, caps, dresses and jackets.

Even though it originated much earlier, corduroy became popular in 18th century Manchester, where its hard-wearing nature made it ideal for factory wear. For this reason, corduroy is known as ‘Manchester’ in some parts of Europe. It became popular again in the 1960s and 1970s with college students and beatniks – also known as the “poor man’s velvet.”

Characteristics

  • Very warm, durable and breathable

  • Soft and comfortable to wear

  • Wrinkles easily

  • Although durable, will wear away/down with frequent wearing

Care

  • Most corduroy garments can be machine washed in warm or cold water, but be sure to avoid excessively hot water as this can cause shrinking.

  • Check the garment's care labels first, as some structured corduroy garments like jackets should only be dry cleaned, as the inner materials that help the garment hold its shape can be destroyed by washing.

  • When ironing, only do so inside out.

Denim

Denim

Denim is generally made of cotton, but nowadays it can be combined with synthetic materials such as polyester or Lycra. Denim is produced through a twill weaving process which gives it the pattern of diagonal ribbing. The yarns from which the fabric is made are twisted – the vertical one is dyed with indigo or blue, while the horizontal one remains white, thus giving the blue-white texture.

The fabric was first produced in Nîmes, France and was called “serge de Nîmes” (fabric of Nimes), from which the current name of “denim” derives. It gained popularity during the mid 19th century in the USA, where Levi Strauss started making denim trousers for workers.

Characteristics

  • A durable, strong and breathable fabric

  • Can be heavy or rigid to wear (although can have a more comfortable wear when blended with other materials)

  • Color can fade with frequent washing

Care

  • Wash in cold water and turn garments inside out to prevent colors from fading

  • Denim can be machine dried on a medium heat setting

  • Denim can be ironed at high temperatures

Sustainability

  • If denim is 100% made of cotton, it is easily biodegradable (several months to decompose). If synthetic materials (e.g. polyester, spandex) were used in production, it can take up to tens of years to decompose.

  • Up to 6,800 litres of water can be used for the production of a single pair of jeans in the growing, dyeing and processing of the cotton.

  • Several chemicals are used in the production of denim, especially during the dyeing stage. Indigo dyes used to be plant-based, but now they are mostly made from oil or coal, which increases the risk of water contamination from production wastewater.

  • 44lbs of CO2 are generated when producing a single pair of jeans (this is the same amount produced by a car that is driven the distance of 80km).

Flannel

Flannel

Flannel is a soft and slightly napped fabric. Originally made from wool, flannel is now also made from cotton or synthetic fibers. Flannel is commonly used to make plaid patterned clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

Characteristics

  • Extremely soft and warm, which is a result of the technique that uses a metal brush to rub the fabric, raising fine fibers for an even softer feel.

  • Does a great job of repelling moisture – wool flannel is great for people working in cold areas & whose jobs require a lot of body movements.

Care

  • In order to prevent shrinking wash with warm or cold water

  • Use only gentle detergents when washing

  • If ironing, only do so inside out

Fleece

Fleece

Fleece is a synthetic insulating fabric made from polyester or other synthetic fibres. The popularity of fleece took off when a company called Malden Mills based in Massachusetts together with Patagonia invented the Polar Fleece, which is breathable and fast-drying, making it perfect for sportswear and winter clothes.

Fleece made from recycled polyester (such as consumer PET bottles) is a more environmentally-friendly alternative.

Characteristics

  • Softer than wool and much lighter

  • Breathable, fast-drying and moisture resistant

  • Does not retain insulation properties when wet, in comparison to wool

  • Static-prone and can attract lint and pet hair

  • Not fire-resistant – be careful around open flames when wearing

Care

  • Close all zippers before washing and turn the garment inside out to reduce pilling

  • Wash on a gentle cycle with a low temperature setting

  • Use only mild detergents – do NOT use fabric softeners – to keep your garment staying fluffy

Sustainability

  • Synthetic fleece is not biodegradable

  • Fleece requires a chemical coating to make it windproof and/or water resistant

  • Synthetic fleece jackets release 1.7 grams of micro-fibres with each wash, or as many as 250,000 synthetic fibres which are particularly dangerous because their size allows them to be consumed by fish, then moving up the food chain, concentrating toxins, until they ultimately reach people.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex

A synthetic waterproof membrane produced by the GORE TEX brand, which can repel liquids while allowing water vapor to pass through. It is designed to be a lightweight, waterproof fabric for all-weather use. Although it can be used for any type of garment (jackets, boots, backpacks etc.) it is especially used for outdoor and sport clothing.

Characteristics

  • Many properties including: waterproof, windproof, breathable and UV resistant

  • Can be difficult to care for and maintain

Care

  • Machine wash on a warm cycle (~40°C) with a small amount of liquid detergent. Rinse twice, and minimize spin cycle to reduce creasing.
    If you can’t tumble dry, iron the dried garment on a warm setting (no steam) by placing a towel between the garment and the iron.

  • Do NOT use powder detergents, fabric softeners, stain removers or bleach on the fabric.

  • Line dry your garment, or tumble dry on a warm, gentle cycle. Once it’s dry, tumble dry the garment for 20 minutes to reactivate the durable water repellent (DWR) treatment (you can do this anytime you notice the water repellency needs a boost).

  • If you're unable to tumble dry, you can iron the dried garment on a warm setting (no steam) by placing a towel in between the garment and the iron.

Sustainability

  • PFOs and PFOA break down extremely slowly in the environment so the contamination risks are prolonged over a long period.

  • PTFE membranes result in greenhouse gas emissions which are 50 times higher than alternative waterproofing options

  • PFOs and PFOA – which are classified as possible carcinogens – are easily accumulated in high quantities. The most danger comes in the case of burning the garments – which releases a lot of toxins.

Jersey

Jersey

Jersey is a type of weft-knit fabric (also called single knit) and is characterized by knit stitches on the front side and purl stitches on the reverse side. Its name comes from Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands.

Jersey is commonly made from cotton – other natural fibers that are also commonly blended are wool and linen – but it can be blended with synthetic fibers.

Many clothing items can be made of jersey, such as t-shirts, sweaters, dresses, pyjamas, underwear or socks. Sheets or other home items can also be made of jersey.

Characteristics

  • Stretches both lengthwise and widthwise

  • It is a soft fabric, yet strong and hard to tear

  • Does not crease easily, making it very versatile

  • Prone to unraveling easily if the stitching breaks

  • The edges can curl up, if the fabric is cut

  • Can shrink easily, especially if made solely from cotton

Care

  • Jersey can be machine washed on a warm setting.

Sustainability

  • The percentage of materials used in the making of jersey influences the level of biodegradability (ex: jersey with a higher composition of cotton is more sustainable than one made of synthetic fibers).

  • Several chemicals as well as pesticides can be used during the production process.

Knit

Knit

Knit fabrics can be one of two types: weft-knit and warp knit. Weft-knit fabrics are more common and can more easily damage vs. warp-knits that are more resistant to snags and can be easily sewn. Cotton and viscose are the most commonly used materials to make knit fabrics.

Knits are different from woven fabrics. In knitted fabrics, yarns are interlooped, while in the latter they are interlaced.

Knits can be used for several clothing items, especially sweaters or cardigans, as well as accessories for the cold season (hats, gloves, scarves).

Characteristics

  • Versatile in look as design patterns can be easily changed

  • Good breathability

  • Provides less coverage, as the fabric is less opaque

  • More prone to shrinkage and less durable

  • Can easily lose its shape if not properly care for

Care

  • Hand-wash only in cold water (but it is always good to follow the label's washing instructions for knit fabrics)

  • Re-shape the garment and lay flat to dry

Sustainability

  • The percentage of materials used in the making of knit fabrics influences the level of biodegradability (e.g. a knitted fabric with a higher composition of cotton is more sustainable than one made of viscose).

  • Several chemicals, such as lubricants or sizing chemicals, are used during the spinning, dyeing or bleaching processes. Pesticides can also be used in the production process.

Lace

Lace

Lace is a patterned fabric produced by a machine and/or intricate handwork such as looping, braiding or twisting of threads. It's often woven from cotton, silk or rayon and has distinctive embroidered patterns.

It is often considered a form of embroidery, but the key distinguishing factor is that embroidery is a form of ornamentation done on a completed fabric whereas lace is a complete fabric in itself.

Characteristics

  • It looks stunning and feminine, perfect for a romantic look.

  • The material is an ideal choice for both evening and casual clothes.

  • It is breathable and has a pleasant texture.

  • It can be easily damaged.

  • Lace made of natural materials by leading European manufacturers are expensive.

Care

  • Should be dry-cleaned or hand-washed only.

  • To prevent good quality lace from turning yellow, it should be stored between layers of blue colored tissue paper.

Sustainability

  • Lace can be sustainable, when made from materials such as organic cotton.

Satin

Satin

Due to the way it's woven, the key characteristic of satin is that it's ultra smooth. Satin has a very distinctive gloss-like sheen. One side of the fabric is silky while the other is matte.

If the fabric is made up of filaments such as silk, nylon and polyester then it is called satin and if fabric is made up of short spun staple fibers like cotton then it is known as sateen.

Silk makes the softest and most luxurious satin. It’s the fiber most associated with the classic satin weave.

Characteristics

Care

Sustainability

  • The sustainability depends on which materials the satin is made from. Generally, natural materials such as silk will be more sustainable than man-made fabrics like Polyester and Nylon (which are petroleum-based and can take thousands of years to biodegrade).

Tulle

Tulle

Tulle is a fine machine-made netted fabric. Mesh net fabric is most commonly used to make wedding veils and embellish wedding gowns.

Tulle can be made from a variety of natural and synthetic fibers, including silk, nylon, rayon, or cotton.

The name comes from Tulle, a city in the southern central region of France, that was a well known center of lace and silk production in the 18th century

Characteristics

  • Lightweight – will not weigh down the wearer even when adding a substantial amount to a single garment

  • Gives a very delicate, sheer look while being very smooth to the touch

  • Holds its shape well – making it perfect for creating a variety of shapes and designs

Care

  • You can use a mild stain remover to remove stains

  • Hand washing in warm water is the preferred way of washing tulle garments

  • If you are going to machine wash tulle, do so only in a mesh garment bag.

  • Do NOT machine dry tulle! Hang or lay flat to dry only.

Tweed

Tweed

Tweed is usually a medium to heavy weighted fabric, woven with a soft, open weave and usually made from wool. Nowadays, we can find tweed made from wool blended with various materials such as silk, cashmere, alpaca wool, mohair, viscose but also from synthetic materials like polyester or acrylic.

Tweed dates back to 18th century Scotland and helped local farmers endure harsh winters, back then, it was extremely thick and did not boast the colourful patterns it does nowadays. Nonetheless, it was Coco Chanel who designed the glamorous tweed jacket that has become an iconic and timeless piece.

Tweed is mainly used to make coats, blazers, suits, but also other garments like skirts, dresses and even accessories.

Characteristics

  • A durable fabric that is also wrinkle and moisture resistant

  • Very warm, when made from wool

  • Prone to shrinking when not properly cared for

Care

  • Tweed is prone to shrinking in the wash, therefore, it is recommended to have it dry cleaned

  • No ironing is usually needed

  • Tweed garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and kept in garment bags in order to be protected from moths

Velvet

Velvet

Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel.

Velvet can be made from either synthetic or natural fibers, with the most expensive and rarest being silk. Much of the velvet sold today as „silk velvet“ is actually a mix of rayon and silk. Cotton is also used to make velvet, though this often results in a less luxurious feeling fabric.

Characteristics

  • The texture is soft and has a luxurious look

  • A very warming accessory to use in the cold seasons

  • The fabric can wear out quickly with persistent wear and use

  • It is more difficult to clean and care for, in comparison to other fabrics

  • Highly dust absorbent

  • Any damage to the fabric will ruin the texture

Care

  • For silk and cotton velvet, dry cleaning is recommended Velveteen can be either washed in a washing machine or dry cleaned

  • Velvet garments should always be turned inside out before cleaning and ironing

Sustainability

  • If velvet is made from polyester, which is derived from petroleum, it has major negative impacts on the planet. In fact, because it is made of plastic, polyester is not biodegradable and also extremely water-thirsty.

What can you find in our material guide? 

 

Our clothes can be made from dozens of different materials, so how do we decide which pieces we want to include in our wardrobes? Where do materials come from and what are their properities? How are materials like wool or silk processed? Where and under what conditions is cotton grown? And, what impact can a single cotton t-shirt have on the environment? 

 

In our material guide, you will find the answers to these and many other questions you may have. You will also learn important tips on how to properly care for the clothing items you buy, make the items you love last longer! 

 

The aim of our guide is to provide you with basic information that will help you when choosing fashion items on GLAMI.